A Winebuyer's Guide to His Favorite Florentine Trattorias
Peter Rizzo knows his wines, and he knows Florence.
Peter is the owner of Old Naples Wholesale Wines, Naples, FL, and for
many years worked in wine distribution in the Boston area. Over
the years Peter made many trips to Tuscany to buy wine and, of course,
felt an understandably intense obligation to set aside time to eat at his favorite trattorias in Florence.
Peter graciously offered to share a few of his favorites. But first, what is a trattoria versus a ristorante versus an osteria? Traditionally, a trattoria was a simple restaurant serving local specialties. A ristorante was
a fancier full-service eatery usually with table cloths, higher prices
and a more cosmopolitan selection of dishes. An osteria was a very simple place to get a very simple meal. Now days, these terms have mutated. A trattoria and osteria can be very elaborate and expensive restaurants. So it is important to read about these in the guides before you book.
Now for Peter's favorate trattorias:
. Trattoria Sostanza, Via del Porcellana, 25r (055-21-26-91)
Sostanza is located within six blocks of the Duomo. It could be
the oldest, continuously operated eatery of its kind in
Florence. Diners eat at communal tables and order from a
blackboard menu. It is a popular place for the view and the food,
but don't expect low prices. Try the roasted meats and the
soups. Peter likes it especially for lunch as break from the
museums and markets.
. Cocco Lezzone, Via del Parioncino, 26r (055-28-71-78)
Located not far from the British Consulate, "Crazy Cook" has communal
tables, an open kitchen and close-quartered dining rooms. Try
their famous Tuscan soups, ribollita (a traditional bread, bean and vegetable soup) and papa di pomidoro
(a tomato soup thickened with break). It is said that these soups
were "cooked-up" by peasants to make use of day-old bread. Other
recommendations are tagliatelli pasta with porcini mushrooms,
slow-roasted veal or pork and steak fiorentina.
. Alla Vecchia Bettola, Via de Ariosto, 32/34r (055-22-41-58)
Peter regards this as a top-flight trattoria.
Located across the Arno River from the main tourist attractions, there
are fewer tourists and more locals. Here the tables also are
communal, but the decor is outstanding and very traditional. Try
the roasted pork (arrista) or the Fiorentina steak for your main
course. Also, you might like the fresh articoke risotto or a bowl
of polenta topped with a tomato ragu (neither are truly Tuscan dishes,
but what the heck). Apparently, you can bring your own favorite
bottle of chianti (probably better to check when making a reservation).
. Da Ruggero, Via Senese, 89r (055-22-05-42)
Da Ruggero also is located on the "other side " of the Arno River not
far from the Porta Romana. The excellent fare is said to be made
from only the freshest ingredients prepared under the watchful eye of
the proprietress. The dishes to savor here include stracotto alla
fiorentini (hearty Tuscan beef stew), ribollita soup and porcini dishes
in season. This is a simple restaurant with simple wonderful
food, true to the essence of Tuscan country cooking.
Well, now you have the recommendations of an
experienced traveler, wine expert and lover of great Italian
food. If you are in the Naples, FL area stop by and visit with
Peter or call him. He is very knowledgeable about wine (and food)
and gladly will make wine recommendations that will suit your palette
and your pocketbook. He can be contacted at:
Tel: (239) 643-2007
E-mail: onwholesalewines@yahoo.com
Why not share with us your favorite trattorias in "Comments"?
